Our first impressions of Poland weren't too flash with a late train, an almost missed connecting train and a dodgy train all at once. But, we have now decided that we like Krakow and have found it a very pretty and pleasant place to visit.
After a much enjoyed coffee this morning, our first one yesterday was after 4pm!, we visited the Cloth Hall in the Main Market Square which has lots of little stalls selling local wares.
The Cloth Hall
Our visit to the Underground Museum told us more of the story of the stalls and their beginnings in medieval Poland. Under the square is a huge archaeological excavation which has been carried out over various stages from around 1890 until 2005. The area has now been turned into an interactive display which explains the history of the trade routes through Krakow, the way the people lived and died during medieval times as well as the history of the construction of the Cloth Hall stalls.
Our history lesson at the museum prepared us for our visit to the Bazylika Mariaćka - St Mary's Basilica. Apparently it is the most beautiful church in Poland and as we have only visited two while we have been here we will take their word for it. The high altar was created by a man called Veit Moss who carved each piece out of oak and linden wood from 1477 - 1489. It is huge at 11 x 13 metres and is very detailed. The altar was taken by the Germans (as was everything of value) once they occupied Krakow and then they had to fight to have it returned so it could be put back together and reinstalled (this process alone took 12 years). The church bells ring on the hour and a bugleman plays a tune from the top of the tower following the bells. We are not sure if he climbs the 239 stairs every hour or stays up there for the whole day, and night. Nevertheless, he is a happy soul - he gives a wave out the window after each tune!
The rest of the afternoon was spent at Oskar Schindler's Factory which has been developed into an amazing museum of the story of Krakow and its residents leading up to and during World War II. All residents of Krakow suffered under the German Occupation from 1939 as their daily lives were changed and what they deemed normal diminished slowly.
The museum had astonishing story after story of sadness, courage, heartbreak and brokenness - but there was absolutely no underlying tone of bitterness or hate. There was an immense sense of national and local pride as Poland and Krakow gained back their independence after such a horrid and diminishing period.
We spent a few hours exploring the timeline of the period which was interspersed with stories of groups and individuals who suffered, were restricted and triumphed during the time of the 'General Government' (the Nazi term for their occupation of Krakow).
We learnt of the University lecturers who were invited to a 'lecture', arrested and sent to camps - many were released but a number of them died from starvation, exhaustion and old age.
The artists who continued to meet and work at a café. One random day the SS raided the cafe, arrested the men present who were all executed the next day in Block 11 (the death block) at Auschwitz.
A young boy named Roman Polanski who had hand written his 7 year old memory of a reduction of the ghetto created in Krakow.
Of Karol Wotjoyła who wrote and recited poetry illegally, acted in theatre companies illegally, studied university illegally and entered the seminary illegally! They love their Karol who later became Pope John Paul II. No wonder he was the first Pope to visit a synagogue when you read of his experiences during the Nazi Occupation of his hometown!
And of course the story of Oskar Schindler who grew into a brave and compassionate man as a result of working with the Jews in his factory. Sadly we learned that the list from Schindler's List is fictional, however there were a number of lists he and his friends worked on at various times in order to save Jewish workers and their families.
Oskar Schindler's office
Plaque outside the factory
Although our time in Krakow has been confronting it has also been amazing. There is a sadness for the cruelty and disregard for the value of human life but Krakow is also a place that stands strong so we all learn and remember and so that history doesn't repeat itself.
Posted with Blogsy
No comments:
Post a Comment